The History of Vanilla

Vanilla is Mexico’s gift to the world!

The Totonac community, based in Papantla, Veracruz, Mexico, is traditionally credited with the earliest use of vanilla. Legend traces the vanilla industry's origins to the 13th-century city of Papantla, known as "the city that perfumed the world," according to Totonac lore. The Totonacos were the first to recognize the aromatic and culinary virtues of vanilla, incorporating it into their daily lives, rituals, and business relationships. Their expertise in medicinal herb use included grinding vanilla beans for lung and stomach issues and using liquid from green beans as a poultice to draw out insect venom and treat wounds, as explained by Patricia Rain in her cultural history of vanilla.

To obtain vanilla, the Totonacos patiently waited for the orchid to be naturally pollinated and bear fruit, collecting the pods when ready. They exposed the green pods to the sun on canvas for drying, then covered them with blankets to induce sweating, acquiring the rough texture and dark brown color characteristic of vanilla. This process, known as "benefiting," was accompanied by rituals and offerings as thanks to the lord of the mountain, Kiwikgolo, reflecting the Totonac's deep respect for the plant. The Totonac language refers to vanilla as xanath, meaning "recondite flower."

After the Aztecs conquered the Totonacs in 1480, vanilla became a highly demanded tribute, essential for the Aztec nobility's chocolate drink, cacahuatl, enriched with chilies. This led to centuries of confusion about the plant's name, translating as "black pod" instead of "black flower." Cured vanilla beans were collected as tribute, and in 1519, Montezuma II and Spanish invader Hernán Cortés famously enjoyed the cold, frothy brew at a feast in the capital Tenochtitlán (now Mexico City). Today, vanilla production in Mexico, particularly in Papantla, continues to thrive, with the region being recognized for the world's best vanilla harvest. The Papantla region, spanning Veracruz and Puebla, is considered a privileged and beautiful area with ideal conditions for vanilla cultivation due to its hot and humid climate.